Getting Started with RC Planes

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF RADIO CONTROL PLANES!

GROUND SCHOOL FOR THE NEW PILOT

With a new generation of very easy to set up and slow flying models at our fingertips many new modellers are discovering the joy of radio control (RC). For the newcomer these small park fly designs have eliminated the necessity of traveling to a local club's flying field where larger, more complicated Model Airplanes are required to fly. We can now fly at almost any convenient field, whether it is a local football pitch, school playground or a cricket pavilion. If you have a fairly large area, the fun of RC flying can be right outside your back door! But learning how and where to fly safely requires a bit of knowledge and some new terminology. The following highlights some of the considerations that may not be obvious to the fledgling modeller. What makes a good trainer? 
If you've never flown an RC model airplane before, you might be tempted to buy one that has a lot of visual appeal, such as a scale model or an advanced sport flyer. Though many of those types of kits are fairly easy to assemble, the models can be very difficult to fly if you have no previous experience. Your first plane should be a good trainer something to cut your teeth on before moving up the performance ladder. A lot of excellent trainers are available. Here are some basic things to consider when deciding which one is right for you.

REPARABILITY

The simple truth is that you're first and probably your second airplane will be damaged in the course of your learning how to fly. Knowing this you should look for a trainer that has relatively few parts that can be easily repaired if they are broken. Wood and foam are high on the easy to fix list; moulded plastic is more difficult to repair. 
Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, e.g., Gorilla Glue and epoxy's are the most common adhesives used for gluing wood parts together, aliphatic resin, UHU and white glues are all excellent for gluing foam pieces back together.

PARTS AVAILABILITY

Sometimes it will be easier and financially cheaper to replace damaged parts rather than to try and fix them. Try to select a model that has replacement parts readily available from the manufacturer. Some model kits come with extra wings just in case you damage one beyond repair. Parts such as motors, batteries and speed controls get damaged or worn out, so be aware that you can simply replace these parts instead of having to buy a new model.

STABILITY

Some trainers are easier to fly than others. Talk to people who have different kinds of models and find out how stable their models are. A good indicator of how stable and, thus, how easy a model will be to fly is how much wing dihedral it has and how long the tail moment is. If the model has a fair amount of dihedral angle (5 or more degrees) and the tail is fairly long, it will fly more stably and smoothly, and this will make it easier to learn how to control it.

CONTROL SETUP

Before you buy a model, check its control setup. Some trainers have rudimentary controls that offer only a little control-surface deflection. Others have a more standard primary-control setup that gives you complete rudder, throttle and elevator control. More advanced designs also have aileron control. For your first couple of models, however, primary control is all you'll need.

ACCESSORY EQUIPMENT

Finally, check to see whether the model you like comes with all the equipment you'll need to fly it. In the long run, it is less expensive to get everything in one package. Your kit should include all the materials needed to completely assemble the model: a motor, a propeller, an ESC, a battery pack and a battery charger. Some of the more complete kits also come with a radio system that includes the transmitter, a receiver, servos and a switch harness that will turn the radio on and off. Starting out with all the equipment you'll need to assemble your model plane is the best way to get airborne.

WHAT'S INVOLVED?

To be successful with RC flying, you have to evaluate several elements: the type of model that interests you, the area where you plan to fly and, of course, yourself as the pilot. Let's look at what's involved.

TYPES OF MODELS

Perhaps the most difficult part of the hobby is choosing which airplane to buy. So many planes are available today that it's easy to get confused. Park flyer models fall into three basic groups, builder's kits, where the airplane has to be built; almost ready to fly (ARTF) kits that require only a little assembly; and ready to fly (RTF) kits that require almost no assembly. A benefit of RTFs is that they are often available as a package deal that includes all the required hardware and radio gear, better known as "bind and fly"(BNF)

BASIC BUILDER'S KITS

The basic builder's kits are less expensive than ARTF or RTF kits but require the additional purchases of model glue, basic tools, covering material and the power system and radio gear. If you enjoy building things and are looking for a project that will last a few weeks, then this is for you. You should be comfortable reading a plan and following instructions. You'll need a designated small work area with a table or workbench, cutting and gluing the pieces that make up an RC model can be a little messy, so it shouldn't be done on the kitchen table.

ARTF'S

ARTFs are basically kit airplanes that have been partially built and covered for you. The fuselage, wing halves and the tail surfaces come ready to be joined. After you've glued or bolted the tail surfaces to the fuselage and assembled the wing, you'll only have to install the radio gear and the power system. The wing halves are often joined with a metal joiner rod or a brace, so you won't even have to glue the panels together. You simply slide the joiner into a slot or a hole in the wing root, and then slide the panels together. The rubber bands that hold the wing to the fuselage prevent the panels from coming apart. This makes transporting and storing your new airplane a bit easier. With some ARTF''s, the motor and the servos come already installed. Simply connect the control linkage, and you're ready to go.

RTF'S /BNF

RTFs are very popular because there's little to do but charge the battery, strap the wing into place, and turn the radio on. These very durable models are often made of formed plastic and rigid foam. Some RTF's come with conventional controls (rudder and elevator); while others have more rudimentary controls that simply turn the plane left or right. Some feature throttle control, while others have an uncomplicated arming switch that turns the motor on and runs it until the rechargeable battery's power has been used up. Several newer designs even come with spare props and wings so you don't have to go back to the hobby shop if you break something.
Regardless of your modelling experience level, there are several park flyers to choose from. Stop at a local hobby shop, and see what best suits your fancy.

BASIC EQUIPMENT

To assemble most builders' kits and ARF's you will need some basic shop tools. These include a small flat head and Phillips screwdrivers, a hobby knife with several new blades, long nose pliers, an Allen key set, a small adjustable spanner and sandpaper. For some of the more involved models, where you'll need to install the motor and electronic speed control (ESC), you should have a small 30W soldering tool, some soldering flux and solder. Most models come with instructions that specify the supplies and tools required to build the model. To save time and effort in the long run, check the instructions and get all your equipment together before you start building your model.

 

FLIGHT SIMULATORS

A very good learning tool for any pilot is a RC flight simulator. Advances in personal computers and microprocessors have enabled simulators (Sims) to evolve to a very high degree of realism. Although not a total replacement for the real world of flight training. Virtual training in the comfort of your own home does help teach the student pilots thumbs and eyes to work together. Because of his practice at home, when the student goes to the flying field and has a radio in his hands, he will react more quickly. Less "think time" means more time to correct for piloting errors. Another advantage of flight Sims is that they extend the flying season for those who live in cooler climates (South Wales). You can "fly" all winter long and never leave the house.

Several flight Sims are available, and they all work roughly in the same way. The Sim presents a model airplane image on the computer screen, and the plane reacts to your control inputs. Some Sims come with a control box that looks very much like an RC transmitter; other systems provide an interface that lets you connect and use your own radio. You can choose from several models provided by the program, or you can create new models or represent your own.

Most Sims offer a choice of flying environments, so you can fly from a typical flying field or that of the surface of Mars, or anywhere in between. Also, you can adjust weather elements such as wind direction, crosswind velocity and gusts. You can make the flight simulation as easy or as difficult as you like. Most programs also include a few helicopter simulations.

By training yourself with a flight Sim, you can greatly reduce the time it will take for you to learn how to fly your model. You can also continue to fly even when the weather isn't cooperating. Bring the excitement of RC flight indoors and have fun.

 

BEFORE FLIGHT TRAINING

There are some basic things you'll need to know after you've built your model and have made sure that everything is working properly. Let's call it "Pre-flight training." If you have just built your first Park flyer, the best way to learn how to fly is by asking an experienced friend to teach you. If, however, you want to learn to fly by yourself, here are some things to be aware of.

 

RADIO FREQUENCY 35 MHZ VS. 2.4 GHZ

The radio that controls your model is on a specific frequency, and when you switch it on, it transmits a continuous signal. If someone else is using the same frequency as you are, the two radios will interfere with each other and cause both of you to lose control. Before you go out and fly, you should make sure you are at least three miles away from an established RC model flying field. You can ask the people at the local hobby shop whether there is a field nearby, or you can check with the British Model Flying Association (BMFA) (www.bmfa.org ) for a list of RC clubs in your area. The introduction of new 2.4 GHz sets eliminates this problem; however you should first consult your club to inform them of your choice.

 

FLIGHT DIRECTION

Up and down are easy no matter in which direction your model is heading, up will always be up, and down will always be down. Left and right are another matter. When you and your model are both facing in the same direction (i.e., the model is flying away from you) your left and right will be the model's left and right. If you move the stick to the right, your model will turn right and vice versa. But when the model is facing toward you, i.e., flying back toward you, its directions, relative to your stick command, will feel as though they have been reversed. When you push the stick to the right, the model will turn to its right, but that will be to your left! This is known as "returning control reversal," and if you are not prepared for this condition it will claim your new model.

If we don't turn the model, it will soon be out of sight. To keep your model in the flying area, you have to think constantly about which way you want to turn your model. Holding the turn too long or turning in the wrong direction will cause it to spiral into the ground. When the model is coming toward you, pushing the stick toward the side with the lower wingtip will level the wings and prevent the turn from becoming so tight that you get confused.

 

WIND

The direction and strength of the wind have a great effect on your model. It's best to fly early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the wind is generally at its calmest, and this gentle air is good for beginners. Look at the trees around your flying area and note how much the wind causes the leaves and branches to sway. Is there a flagpole nearby? How much is the flag waving in the breeze? In a heavy wind, you may find you have no control at all over the model and it may be carried away by the wind. For your first few flights, the less wind, the better.

 

TAKE OFF

Always take off into the wind. Face into the wind and hold the model above and slightly in front of you. Launch it by taking a few quick steps and gently releasing it into the wind with its wings level. Release it with its nose pointing at the horizon or slightly below it. Don't throw it upward at a high angle; it will stall and lose lift.

LANDING

When flying, try to keep the model upwind from you. If you allow it to get too far downwind, at the end of its flight, it may not have enough power or fuel for you to bring it back and land. When it is time to land keep the wings level and land straight into the wind. Throttle back and allow the model to descend gradually, don't dive toward the ground or you'll increase the model's speed and make it difficult to land gently. Just as the model is about to touch down gently apply up elevator to keep its nose up slightly. Downwind and crosswind landings are difficult and may cause you to damage the model when it touches the ground. Whenever possible land into the wind. Landing upwind allows the model to settle onto the ground gently.

YOU'RE FLYING AREA

It may seem obvious but you really need to evaluate the size and condition of the area in which you want to fly your model. Do you want to fly it in your backyard or at a local park? Is there a school nearby with a wide open football field that's calling your name? The size of your flying area will dictate the size of the model airplane that can be safely flown there. Here's why:

The size of your model and how much it weighs will affect how quickly or slowly it can fly. Its speed then affects how quickly you can turn it, and the turning radius determines the size of the airspace you need. "Yes I said airspace" not the size of the field. Models can fly great distances from you and you could fly it so far away that it would be difficult to see and to control. Look for a flying site that allows you to keep the model close without your running it into trees or buildings. And for safety reasons don't fly it over a road with traffic.

Most Park flyers have small landing gear and wheels, so they can't taxi and take off from the ground. For this reason, you'll have to hand launch the model (or have a friend hand launch it for you). After the model has used up its battery charge it's time to land. Small models can take off from hard paved surfaces such as large runways, but remember that if you crash your model into a hard surface it's more likely to be damaged. The safest areas to fly from are grass fields; tall grass is also great, especially if you're teaching yourself how to fly. Tall grass will cushion the model when it lands and could prevent it from being damaged in a hard return to earth.

Establish a "flight line." When flying in an open field, it's good practice to define an imaginary safety line that helps separate your model from the people who are watching you fly. Don't fly the model in a circle around you; keep the model's flight path in front of you, and have observers stay behind you. This gives an added margin of safety for everyone.

 

SMALL, SLOW, LIGHTWEIGHT MODELS

These can easily be flown in an area that's roughly the size of a football field. This is the minimum area in which to fly a model safely. Compare your backyard or a nearby vacant play area, and ask yourself whether you can safely fly there. You should be able to hand-launch the model and fly a circular course or a figure 8 pattern. If your model is very light and agile, you will in time be able to fly it between trees and over fences, but in the beginning make sure your flying area is clear of obstructions.

 

SLIGHTLY HEAVIER MODELS

Because they fly a little faster, these planes will need an area that's roughly the size of 4 football pitches. Sporting complexes often have two pitches in one field and this is not ideal. Of course you'll have to wait for a time when the home team is not practicing. If you're lucky enough to have an area this big or you live near a vacant field, you're all set. Please, don't fly your model over other people; it can be distracting and is definitely unsafe.

 

BIGGER AND FASTER MODELS

These models should be flown in a flying field. You should stand on the flight line so you have a lot of space all around you. Large local parks will not have this much open area, but regardless of where you fly, before you throw your model into the air, ask someone whether or not you can do so. It's the polite thing to do. People who are walking dogs and kids who are playing nearby are all attracted to model airplanes, so be aware of what's going on around you. Let people know you're out there; be seen and have fun.

BEFORE YOU FLY

WELL, YOU'RE ALMOST THERE!

You've built and prepared your model and you've found a great place to fly it close to home. Is there anything left to do before that first flight? Yes; you should be aware of a few details that can make the difference between your having a great flight and a bad one. Let's see what's left.

BALANCE

Did you balance your model? Did you check to see whether the model's centre of gravity (CG) is in the proper location? Every airplane kit instruction booklet should explain where the balance point should be. For a straight wing, this point will usually fall somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 of the chord back from the leading edge (LE). With a sweptback wing, the CG will be farther rearward; again, checking the instructions.

 

TO CHECK THE MODEL'S BALANCE POINT

Install the receiver (RX) and the battery pack and attach the wing to the fuselage. Support the wing with your fingertips near the fuselage sides and test the model's balance, move the receiver and battery until it balances level or slightly nose down. This is the balance point, and it should match that specified on the instructions. If it doesn't, try moving the RX and battery again. If that doesn't work, add a little weight to the nose or the tail until the model balances where it should. This is vital. A nose heavy model will probably fly satisfactorily, but a tail heavy one might not be controllable.

 

CONTROL DIRECTION

One of the most common causes of a first flight crash is that a model has its controls hooked up backward. Test your controls to make sure that they don't bind and that they move the control surfaces (rudder, ailerons, etc.) in the correct directions. Turn the transmitter (TX) on first and then turn on your model's RX. Make sure the TX's trim levers are cantered, and check the control surfaces to make sure that they are straight and in their neutral positions. While facing in the same direction as your model, move the control stick to the right; the rudder should also move to the right. If your plane has ailerons, when you move the stick to the right, the right aileron should move up and the left aileron should move down. When you pull the elevator stick back toward you, the elevator should move upward; it should move downward when you push the stick away from you.

This is also a good time to check the throttle and to make sure that the motor is turning in the correct direction. When the throttle is pulled all the way back, the prop should not move. As you push the throttle stick forward, the prop should respond proportionally and should blow air back over the model. If your airplane has only an arming switch (no throttle), make sure the prop spins in the right direction (counter clockwise when looked at from the nose of the plane).

 

WARPING

Having assembled the model, make sure that the wing panels are straight no twisting or warping. Look at each wing panel from the tip to the root (toward the fuselage) and make sure their angles match. If one tip has more positive or negative angle than the other does, your model will try to turn in one direction or the other.

 

TO FIX A WARPED WING PANEL

Gently twist it into the opposite position, and then have a helper use a heat gun or a high wattage hair dryer to remove the wrinkles in the covering. When the covering has cooled and the wrinkles have disappeared, release the panel, and it should be straight.

Check to make sure that the tail surfaces are also free of warps and that the wing and horizontal stabilizer are properly aligned.

That's about it. Make sure your RX batteries are fully charged and that the TX batteries are also in peak condition. Check the little light indicator or the meter on the TX face and make sure your radio system is working properly. Have fun.

This is not just any foam model! It's a very clever WOT 4 that can be flight ready in less than 30 minutes!
The beautiful EPO mouldings hide an innovative internal structure that adds strength where needed and locks all the components together. The impressive specification includes a carbon main spar, carbon fuselage spine, shock resistant engine mount, simple battery access and battery retaining moulding, with further carbon reinforcement for the tail plane and ailerons.
Four servos, brushless motor and 30A ESC are all pre-installed. Just add a receiver and a 3 cell 2100~2500mAh battery of your choice then let the fun begin!

CONTACT DETAIL

 

Abergavenny Model Centre
T: 01873 852566
W: www.abergavennymodelcentre.co.uk
E: info@ abergavennymodelcentre.co.uk

BMFA/British Model Flying Association
T: 0116 440 028
W: www.bmfa.org
E: admin@bmfa.org

Monmouth &Raglan Model Flying Club
Wednesday & Sunday Afternoon 12.00 - 18.00
Club Secretary
Mr S Taylor
T: 01495 740246